PixInsight 1.6.9 introduced a new automated update system - a system that allows developers to easily deploy updates as soon as they are ready. Automated deployment can bebothamazingly convenient for your users and a complete nightmare for the developer. Without proper automation accidents will happen and user experience will suffer. This post details a method for automating the deployment of your software in an effort to minimize defective releases. The example content is a simple PJSR script, but the described method applies to PCL modules.

This script now has its own page, Sky Limited Exposure

I decided to purchase an SBIG ST-8300M to replace the 10D and 5DMkII for astrophotography. Although these camera are amazing performers they just don’t hold up without modifications for deep sky subjects due to their muffled sensitivity to hydrogen-alpha light. I also own an SBIG STV and SBIG ST-5C and the company makes great hardware. The ST-8300 is a bargain when compared with most other dedicated astrophotography cameras and when combined with a filter wheel and good filters you can take extremely high quality pictures for a fraction of what the ultra high-end hardware costs.

I’m evaluating MaxIm DL and PixInsight at the same time because I only want to purchase one image processing package. The first significant obstacle I’ve come across is that PixInsight doesn’t seem to scale dark frames very well. I’ve run the exact same calibration process on the same image and I get completely different results with the two packages. I’m testing using a 600 second raw image, a 300 second master dark frame, and a master bias frame.

This is a picture of the half moon from early in January 2009. This was taken with a Canon 10D through a Takahashi FS102 refractor at prime focus.

There have been a lot of reports of the 5D’s trouble with bright point lights. I recently updated to the new firmware (version 1.0.7) and took some test shots with the 5D Mark II and a Takahashi FS102 refractor. I also wanted to test out the sensitivity at various ISO values. All these pictures were taken from my driveway on a day with fairly bad seeing and transparency. I got out a ladder and threw a blanket over one of the street lights but it didn’t help much with the sky glow.

I recently had some of my old astrophoto slides scanned with a Noritsu slide scanner so I can put them into permanent storage and finally move into 100% digital photography. I’ve learned a lot about image processing and the tools are much better now than they were when I originally took the photos. There are three major changes that affect the quality: The slide scanner is much better (although the lab gave me JPG files instead of 16bit TIFF files, what the hell?

It’s been at least three years since I’ve done any astrophotograpy but last night I lugged out the equipment and shot a few frames. I only made it out as far as the driveway and the sky isn’t very dark in northern San Diego but it’s amazing what kind of results you can get with a Canon 10D. Traditionally you would use either slide film or a cooled, black and white CCD sensor.

This is a tutorial on replacing the bearings on the Losmandy G11 telescope mount. This may or may not improve the tracking ability. It’s kind of fun to do anyway. The Losmandy G11 mount is a great piece of hardware. However, the included bearings seem to fall short when compared to the rest of the mount. Unfortunately these bearings can play a large role in the tracking accuracy of the mount.

I have always been irritated that most adapters and extension tubes only come with a single set screw. This not only feels insecure when holding expensive eyepieces, but also allows excessive play burring astrophotography. I’m usually chicken about drilling into my equipment, but I finally added a second set screw to all my adapters and thought I would share my experience for anyone else who may want to do the same.

Takahashi FS102 Refractor This Apochromatic telescope provides very sharp images with no color fringed stars. When reduced to F/5.9 you get about 3 degrees of coverage in the sky. I prefer to take pictures of large, wide field objects and this is just about the right focal length for those objects. I also use the extremely well made Takahashi camera angle adjuster to make framing easy. I use a collection of camera bodies and lenses along with the telescope tube for pictures.

Because most CCD cameras made for astronomy are monochromatic it is neccessary to place a series of filters over the camera and take seperate images that each cover a different spectral region. These images can then be combined to create a “true-color” image. The problem with placing filters over the camera is that it reduces the amount of light that strikes the chip. This means you need to take longer exposures.

Update: I now use Noise Ninja for all my noise reduction. It works really well. Using Photoshop Adapted from a paper by mwcook@cris.com The idea behind this method is that the low-light areas of the photograph need to be smoothed in order to remove grain artifacts while the bright stars and nebulosity should remain unchanged. To achieve this in Photoshop you need to construct a mask for the Gausian Blur filter.

I don’t have my own observatory so I use the San Diego Astronomy Association’s dark sky site in Tierra Del Sol most of the time. The following are some pictures of Tierra Del Sol at various levels of activity. These are some pictures taken durring the SDAA yearly barbeque.